Thursday, October 27, 2016

A simple fix- LED bulb

HOW IT WORKS:

It uses a simple EMI filter followed by a 'bridge and a filter' which supplies
dc current to a series of LEDs.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

1) After you open the casing, see for any burnt component. If you find any, replace them.
2) Check for any faulty LED using a multimeter.
3) Check the copper track.

CASE STUDY:

- Here I found one, which had a faulty LED. There were traces of liquid flow around the same which must have been responsible for the dead set. (A OPEN CIRCUIT!)
- Now due to unavailability of any spare LED, bypassed the same using a 1N4001 diode.

And, bingo!!

Sunday, October 9, 2016

FIX A LEAKY SINK FAUCET

Company: ROYAL

Item: Half turn designer sink faucet.

PROBLEM: Leaks water in fully closed position. Applying pressure laterally on the knob increases or decreases the quantity of leakage.

WORK TO BE DONE:

- Check whether the leakage is from the flow end or at the joints.
- If at the joints, a worn out washer could be the cause.
- If at the flow end, it is the channel, where the problem could be because of a worn out washer or something else.

- Here in the case, it was the latter. In such a case, open the faucet from the knob end.
- Look for a small opening usually closed by a plastic lid. Remove the cover.
- Using an Allen Key of the proper size, unscrew the knob from the fixture.
- Now using a spanner or a plier, unscrew the cartridge form the fixture.
- The cartridge has a rotating knob, a set of ceramic discs that performs the opening and closing function for the water to flow or block, and a few washers.
- Dismantle the cartridge and wash properly all its elements to remove the sediments of mud from every corner. Refix it back to shape later. If all the washers and the discs are fine, then this much should do.

-Screw the cartridge back to the body and also the knob.

This much of patience worked for me. TRY IT YOURSELF.




          

Note: The above mentioned work has been tested and found to be OK. However, they are the personal views of the author and are subjected to agreement or disagreement.

Saturday, December 7, 2013

SAMSUNG 14" COLOR CRT TV REPAIR #4



IMPORTANT: WHILE WORKING WITH TV OR ANY CIRCUIT WITH HIGH VOLTAGES IT IS WISE TO USE AN  ISOLATION TRANSFORMER FOR YOUR SAFETY! (I need to buy one soon!!)
 
TYPE: KS1A14E4
MODEL: CZ-14E4V

SYMPTOM: PICTURE SQUEEZED IN AND DIED - BURNING SMELL

Well, you are enjoying your favourite tv show, and suddenly the picture starts to squeeze in and before you could respond logically, the picture has gone leaving behind an odour of burnt insulation.


DIAGNOSIS:

-The symptom indicates the deflection yoke coil failure. Make sure by finding traces of burns on the coil, you can even smell to confirm. And technically you can measure the coil resistance to find if it has shorted or opened up! The picture below elaborates my case-


-Yoke failure confirmed with badly burnt HORZONTAL DEFLECTION coil/LINE coil. The resistance test confirmed a short. As I was trying to figure out the reason for the same, found dry solder joints on the connector where the coil was soldered. It is wise to resolder these points once the problem is in its initial stage and thus the fault can actually be avoided. Use a high wattage iron (around 55W) for good soldering finish. This in necessary as the coils draw high current (also at high frequency, 16kHz approx. in the case of line coil) and hence the solder joints can dry up easily! This can also affect the horizontal output transformer (HOT) and associated circuitry.

-Replaced the deflection yoke with a new one from the market (₹250). Before replacing the yoke, please make sure you mark the positions of the purity & convergence magnets on the CRT neck with a marker or whatever you prefer. Even slight changes to the original positioning could effect the picture quality (I was very excited to replace and didn’t think of it much and later on had to toil hard to bring back into its earlier position, though is not perfect). Checked the circuits nearby only to find everything quite fine. Switched ON the set and the picture was back! 

-Note here that the new yoke coil is not completely in tune with the circuit elements of the tv and as such the new yoke may introduce convergence/geometry/landing errors. For eg, the new raster could be wide or narrow (in my case it is wide). Havn’t gone into the details of improving it yet. A short cut to it would be to adjust the settings by entering the FACTORY/SERVICE MODE of your tv (just be careful while changing the settings there). Different tvs have different keys to enter the factory mode which could be googled! But it won’t solve the problem completely. Infact the raster size could still be different for different channels.




Monday, December 2, 2013

USHA 400W MIXER-GRINDER REPAIR #1

IMPORTANT: WHILE WORKING WITH TV OR ANY CIRCUIT WITH HIGH VOLTAGES IT IS WISE TO USE AN  ISOLATION TRANSFORMER FOR YOUR SAFETY! (I need to buy one soon!!)
 
SYMPTOM: Doesn't start. On last operation, there was smoke coming out from inside.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS: 


- the smoke thing indicated that something definitely burnt, could be the motor coils or the wire insulation; here's an inside picture-






- before uninstalling the motor out of the box which is very cumbersome, checked all the external joints







- there was a prolapse at one end of a wire at a tag block (which generally occurs on overheating); on checking the same, found there were signs of burns on the wire and also there was a lot of oxide layer on the wire; washed all the connectors with iso-propyl alcohol and soldered the wire ends where necessary and screwed them to their respective positions

- there were some other dry joints which were resoldered


- after doing all these, plugged in to the mains supply to check if the problem was this small; and yes, it worked; i just couldn't believe my eyes; had a similar problem some 11 years back when we send it to repair and they charged ₹700 (could have had a deuce cricket bat!!)

MORAL OF THE STORY- before sending your faulty gadget for repair, try finding what went wrong by atleast having a look at the inside; the problem could be as small as this!


Sunday, December 1, 2013

SAMSUNG 14" COLOR CRT TV REPAIR #3

IMPORTANT: WHILE WORKING WITH TV OR ANY CIRCUIT WITH HIGH VOLTAGES IT IS WISE TO USE AN  ISOLATION TRANSFORMER FOR YOUR SAFETY! (I need to buy one soon!!)
 
TYPE: KS1A14E4
MODEL: CZ-14E4V

SYMPTOM: PICTURE OK but NO SOUND (contd from repair #2)

FAULT DIAGNOSIS: 
- hurrah! this time it was easy-


- the sound ic, TDA8943SF, 6 W mono Bridge Tied Load (BTL) audio amplifier
- checked for some more shorted components, found none, everything seemed ok
- replaced it with a new one (₹ 70) and turned the tv ON

PICTURE OK, SOUND OK :)

Saturday, November 30, 2013

SAMSUNG 14" COLOR CRT TV REPAIR #2

IMPORTANT: WHILE WORKING WITH TV OR ANY CIRCUIT WITH HIGH VOLTAGES IT IS WISE TO USE AN  ISOLATION TRANSFORMER FOR YOUR SAFETY! (I need to buy one soon!!)
 
TYPE: KS1A14E4
MODEL: CZ-14E4V

SYMPTOM: TV dead. i.e., no sign of power on switching ON, nothing happens :(

FAULT DIAGNOSIS: 
- the problem seems to be in the smps section
- checked the voltage at the main filter cap which was around 260V (this ensures ckt till this point is fine)
- the main dc supply (260V approx) was reaching the drain pin of the power regulator ic (KA5Q0765R), but the voltage at the Vcc pin was pulsating
- this could mean that the ic is gone and needs replacement but i was not sure of it, so kept searching for some more faults
- on checking the secondary side of the smps, found a diode shorted
- RU20JGF, 600V, 2A fast switching plastic rectifier diode on the B+ line


- replaced the diode and resoldered the dry joints
- turned the tv ON and immediately heard a blast, PICTURE OK but this time NO SOUND :(


to be contd..

SAMSUNG 14" COLOR CRT TV REPAIR #1

IMPORTANT: WHILE WORKING WITH TV OR ANY CIRCUIT WITH HIGH VOLTAGES IT IS WISE TO USE AN  ISOLATION TRANSFORMER FOR YOUR SAFETY! (I need to buy one soon!!)
 
TYPE: KS1A14E4
MODEL: CZ-14E4V

SYMPTOM: When the TV is switched ON, the standby led (GREEN) turns ON for a few seconds and then automatically turns OFF.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS: 
- the problem seems to be in the smps section
- checked the section thoroughly, found a leaky cap 160V, 47uF on the secondary side of the power supply in the B+ line
- replaced the cap with a new one and BINGO!

here's the naughty one-